Finally! … this has been going on for a while now.
I finally realized that I’d have to knit a gusset that fit, then base the rest of the sock on that. Here’s the gusset that actually fits!
Sock yarn (I used Apple Laine Arizona for the test socks), size 1 needles (magic loop)
Turkish cast on 16 stitches, increase every row to 32 stitches, then every other row to 64 stitches.
(Makes the toe rounder).
Knit until 6 1/2 inches long, then work the gusset.
Needle 1: knit 16 instep stitches, knit1, m1R, knit to end.
Needle 2: knit to 1 stitch before instep stitches, m1L, knit 1, knit 16 instep stitches.
Continue increasing every other row 12 times – 44 stitches on each needle.
Begin short rows for heel cup:
From center of heel, knit 10 stitches, wrap next stitch, turn. Purl back to center, purl 10 stitches, wrap 1, turn. Continue wrapping stitches in this manner until there are 6 stitches left unworked in the center. (3 on each needle)
When done, knit all stitches together with wraps, purl back and purl all stitches together with wraps. Begin heel flap.
Slip first stitch, then knit 1, slip 1, to last stitch, k2tog, turn.
Slip first stitch, purl to last stitch, p2tog.
Continue until there are 6 stitches on each side of the heel flap – this gives you 6+22+6=34. Knit around again, knitting 2 together at the end of the heel flap (prevents a hole at the last k2tog), and knitting 2 together when you reach the beginning of the heel flap again. Now you’ve got your original 64 stitches back.
Knit plain for 1/2 -1 inch, then either continue the leg plain, or do the leg in ribbing. The last inch of the cuff should be ribbing if the leg is plain.